America's First Wild and Scenic River

2010-02-18T15:02:00.000-08:00

Its time to paddle a wonderful river, an entire river. The plan is to have everyone meet in Jasper, Arkansas and stay at the Gordon Hotel (http://www.gordonmotel.com/) on 4/27. Folks wanting a shuttle from Branson, Missouri can arrange a pick up from me.
The following morning I have arranged for canoe rental and a shuttle to our put in at Ponca. From Ponca we will paddle the full length of the river to the confluence of the White River. On May 5 Another shuttle has been arranged to take us back to Jasper where we will can spend the night at the Gordon Hotel.
We will be taking our time so we will have the chance to hike, explore, and take heaps of photos.

Running Shuttle in the Middle of February

The Lord shining down upon the Buffalo River Valley.

THE RIVER:
courtesy of Arkansas Department of Parks and Tourism

North Arkansas' Buffalo River, the country's first national river, is roughly 150 miles long, and includes nearly 95,000 acres of public land along its corridor. It has been the topic of a full-length book, the subject of a National Geographic feature article, and the cornerstone for the state's environmental movement.

Like the Mulberry River and Big Piney Creek, the Buffalo originates in the rugged Boston Mountains division of the Ozarks near Fallsville in southwestern Newton County. Unlike the other two streams which eventually head south to meet the Arkansas River, the Buffalo goes east where, ultimately, it joins the White River. Along the way it descends nearly 2,000 feet through layers of sandstone, limestone, and chert. One immediately obvious result is bluffs and more bluffs - the highest in all the Ozarks. Hidden away ready for discovery, are other geologic marvels - springs, caves, waterfalls, natural bridges, and box-like canyons.

But the Buffalo is much more than an ongoing display of natural curiosities. It is, in the words of the National Park Service, "an island of time and space.'' It is a valley where turn-of-the-century lifestyles and landscapes still exist. It is a place that refreshes the spirit.

CHARACTERISTICS
The Buffalo River gets its start in national forest country, nearly within rock-throwing distance of the highest point in the Ozarks. Some floating takes place in the headwaters area (the "Hailstone'' trip from Dixon Road to Arkansas 21 is almost legendary among serious paddlers), but, for most, this is a good place to put on the hiking boots. A real treat is the Upper Buffalo Wilderness, a 14,200-acre tract managed by the Ozark National Forest and the Buffalo National River. Visitors to the area can expect to see caves, bluffs, waterfalls, old cabin sites, and maybe even a local black bear.

The Buffalo's next section from the Highway 21 bridge south of Boxley to the Ponca low-water bridge at the Highway 74 crossing-is another that doesn't get a great deal of use; the water's usually too low. But when conditions are right, this six mile stretch offers a fast-moving series of class II rapids, many of which are laced with willows.

Perhaps the most famous of all Buffalo River floats are those that take place between Ponca and the Arkansas Highway 7 crossing (known until recent years as the community of Pruitt. Something for everyone can be found in this 25-mile section: class I and II rapids (complete with hazards like "Gray Rock''); the highest waterfall in mid-America (at Hemmed-in-Hollow) the 11,300-acre Ponca Wilderness; towering cliffs including the 500-foot tall Big Slurry and an excellent assortment of swimming holes. In addition, there are several conveniently located access points/campgrounds - Steel Creek, Kyles Landing. Erbie, and Ozark-between Ponca and Highway 7.

The Buffalo's next stretch-from Arkansas 7 to Highway 123 (or Carver)-is about 10 miles in length. While it doesn't offer the spectacular scenery available just upstream, this is a fine float, especially for families. It features class I rapids, gravel bars, and numerous bluffs. Campsites and access are available at Carver or two and a half miles upstream at Hasty.

Another major section of the river begins at Carver and concludes about 32 miles downstream at the U.S. 65 bridge (in-between access and camping areas are available at Mount Hershey and Woolum) . Many Buffalo veterans consider this to be among the stream's finest stretches. While other sections feature higher bluffs and more challenging rapids, this portion of the river is one of its quietest and most peaceful trips. The scenery is good, too, including such things as ''The Narrows''a tall but narrow rock outcrop separating the Buffalo and Richland Creek.

The 27 mile trip from US 65 to Buffalo Point (still referred to by many as ''the old state park'') is a long, lazy float ideally suited for those interested in casual canoeing. The scenery's good, and the rapids are interesting but easy. Other access points within this part of the river include Gilbert, Maumee North, Maumee South, and the Highway 14 crossing

The Buffalo's final stretch-from Buffalo Point to Buffalo City (on the White River) is 30 miles in length, with only a single takeout point (Rush) in between. The 7.5-mile float from Buffalo Point to Rush is short, safe, and scenic - perfect for families. The remaining 23 mile trip passes through some of Arkansas's wildest country, including better than 39,000 acres of wilderness (the Lower Buffalo Wilderness and the adjacent Leatherwood Wilderness). This is the one for those wanting to get away from it all.

SEASONS
The Buffalo is a river for all seasons. Canoeing is a year-round possibility except in the upper reaches where it's limited to the winter and spring months. Camping too is a yearlong pursuit, though visitors should remember the state's lowest winter temperatures traditionally occur along this stream. The Buffalo's corridor is also a great locale for hiking and backpacking, but expeditions should be scheduled outside the tick/chigger season.

SCENERY
Spectacular is the best word to describe scenery along the river. For 150 miles, the Buffalo offers an unmatched mixture of clear water, lofty cliffs, overhanging hardwoods, and inviting gravel bars. There's excellent scenery off the river too. One place that shouldn't be missed is Lost Valley, a unique bluff-lined canyon between Boxley and Ponca. The Richland Creek Valley is also a sight-seer's paradise, especially in its upper reaches where an 11,800 acre wilderness area awaits the adventurous.

PRIMARY GEAR LIST FOR PARTICIPANTS

First Aid kit
Duct Tape
Pain reliever
Personal medical supplies (Prescriptions, inhaler, antibiotics, etc.)
Water bottles
Flashlight or head lamp
Spare batteries
Sunglasses
Prescription Glasses/Contact lenses and supplies
Tent
Spare tent stakes
Ground Cloth
Sleeping Bag (Temperature appropriate)
Camp pillow or stuff bag to fill with clothing to serve as pillow
Sleeping pad
Waterproof stuff bag for sleeping bag
Waterproof stuff sacks (For clothing and other gear)
Equipment repair supplies
Knife, fork, spoon
Knife (Swiss Army™ or good a folding model)
Cup
Plate
Feminine hygiene products
Toilet paper
Trowel
Toothbrush
Toothpaste
Hair brush/comb
Biodegradable soap
Antibacterial gel
Pack towel/wash rag
Moist towelettes
Water shoes or sandals
Bandanas
Brimmed Hat
Mosquito head net
Raingear - waterproof/breathable jacket
Fleece or wool shirt or sweater
Light weight camping pants
Swim suit
Shorts
T-shirt
Long Sleeve shirt - light weight (Great for sun protection)
Underwear
Gloves (For paddling and warmth)
Sun Screen
Sunburn Cream
Insect repellant
Lip Balm
[Photo]

Optional Stuff (but nice)
Candle Lantern/candles
Books
Journal and pen
Playing Cards
Binoculars
Camera and film
Waterproof Camera Bag
Fishing Gear
Favorite beverage
Guide books
Snorkeling gear
snacks

Check out a video of our scout trip at:

Floating the Wild and Scenic Buffalo River

America's First Wild and Scenic River